We're Home

We arrived safely back in Vermont.  It's good to be back.  Yael and I have shared an incredible experience together with some wonderful memories.  Over the next few days, I will reread my blog, as well as Yael's to add some more thoughts.

Five important ones....

1. I can't say enough how great it was to travel and study with Rabbi Alan Ullman.  His insights into Torah truly elevated me.

2. Our Israeli guide, Nir Ofer, shepherded us through the desert and made this trip as fantastic as it was.  He attended to our every need.  His knowledge of Israel and Torah was a tremendous asset and blessing to us all.

3. I came away from Israel with a real appreciation of David Ben Gurion.  He was a modern day Moses in that he led the children of Israel into statehood.  His vision for Israel and for the desert in particular is inspiring.  I plan to read more about him both autobiographical, biographical and historical fiction (e.g. The Hope by Herman Wouk).

4. My fellow travelers definitely helped to make this a trip to remember.  Over the course of a mere 10 days, we bonded in such a way that I am confident we have forged a lasting relationship.  Each one of us brought his or her insights to our studies that I lost track of all of the "aha" moments.  The camaraderie  was another blessing of this trip.

5. I truly felt safe wherever we walked in Israel.  I had a real sense of belonging.  However, there were definitely reminders of the fragility of peace. Not only did you see soldiers (sadly very young) with guns (although less than I remember from 28 years ago), you couldn't help but notice the bullet fragments in the walls.  Experiencing Israel renewed my commitment to its well being.

Another Western Wall story

On Friday morning, we had some free time so Yael and I decided to go to the Kotel (the Western Wall).  I was once again able to walk right up to the wall and pray.  After a few minutes, I stepped back from the Wall, found a wooden lectern and opened a prayer pamphlet that Alan had given us.  There were many tourists around me.  I kept noticing fathers taking pictures of their sons.  I offered to take pictures of the fathers and sons together.

An orthodox Jew came up to me to ask if I was a rabbi.  I said no.  "But you at least must be a kohen (a member of the high priests)," he said.  "Why?" I asked. "Because I have been watching you and you kept interrupting your prayers to help others," he answered.  

He then beckoned me to go inside the library and stand before one of the arks.  There he offered a blessing for my family.  We kissed the siddur and ark curtain.  Then, he told me that we helped a Jewish orphanage.  I immediately offered him 20 NIS.  He appeared insulted and 

told me that for me to truly receive a blessing I should give the number that he typed out on his cell phone--170 NIS.  I again offered him 20 NIS.  "You don't understand," he said, " one must give tzedukah (charity) until it hurts so that you can benefit from the act."  "No," I said, "One should not give tzedukah beyond ones means because one should not be hurt by the commandment of tzedukah."  He paused and said, "You are a rabbi!"  "Therefore, when I give you this 20 NIS its as if I am giving you 170 NIS," I added.  He didn't want to take the 20 NIS until I pointed out that one must not turn back tzedukah because that would hinder someone from performing the mitzvah.  He took the 20 NIS.  We walked out of the library with our arms around each others waists.  He kissed me on both cheeks.  "You are a rabbi because I have learned something from you.  Shabbat Shalom." he said as we parted ways.

Jerusalem Shopping

One of the reasons for coming to Jerusalem is the shopping.  Walking through the Cardo (the Jewish Quarter) or the Arab shuk is quite an experience.  The Jewish Quarter is fairly clean and quiet while the Arab shuk is crowded and dark.  We really wanted to buy as much as we could in the Jewish Quarter so that it would benefit Israelis.  However, we also decided to spend some money in the Arab shuk, as well.  We bought Judaica for our daughters.  Jessica was easy since she asked for a new  tallit (prayer shawl).  Rachel wasn't as specific but we found a beautiful and unusual silver necklace.  Yael bought some jewelry for herself.  I bought a new kippa.  However, Yael was able to find beautiful scarves in the Arab shuk for only $2 each.  We also found another unusual Ivory necklace for Rachel made by a Palestinian.  It was definitely an experience.

Also found in the Arab shuk is the best halavah (a dessert made from sesame seeds and sugar).  We bought a 1/2 kilo of pistachio and a 1/2 kilo of marble when we first arrived which we shared with our group.  We will be bringing this delicious product home to Vermont to share with our friends, as well.

NOTE 1:  My memory of 28 years ago was aggressive selling.  This trip was fairly passive.  No one was calling us into their shop.  

NOTE 2: Faith had asked me to bring back some specific items that she had seen on her trip one year ago.  Unfortunately, I could not find them despite going to several shops.  I was told that inventories are down due to the economy and season.

NOTE 3:  Besides the kippah or yarmulke, I didn't buy anything tangible for myself.  As I was going in and out of shops buying souvenirs for others, I realized that the only take away I wanted from Israel was what I got..... a true spiritual enrichment.

Museum of the Seam

Thanks to one of our fellow travelers, Ron, we visited the Museum of the Seam.  From 1948 to 1967, the house was used as an Israeli Military Outpost.  The post was situated on the seam line between Israel and Jordan, across from the Mandelbaum Crossing, which was the only crossing point between East and West Jerusalem.  The museum was established by Raphie Etgar as a site for peace and tolerance.  Raphie guided us through the current exhibit, Heartquake since it's more famous, Coexistence, is on tour.  The exhibit was moving.  For example, a video showed a series of people reacting to something.  Was it a funeral or a tragic scene didn't matter but you saw how it affected everyone.  Another showed a figure lying on a table with large hands over the body.  Were the hands there to help or hurt? After viewing over 35 paintings, sculptures or video representations, you found yourself on the roof of the museum looking out to see the differences between East and West Jerusalem.  While both sides are now under Israeli control, you can only imagine the arbitrary line that once divided the city.  The final exhibit was a children's play swing erected on the roof railing. Here you saw a safe child's play toy swinging precariously over the edge.  No easy answers.  

NOTE 1:  When Raphie heard that we had gone to the desert to tour and study, he expressed the view that there was nothing there.  Boy was he off base!

Valley of Elah

Our group visited the Valley of Elah, the place where the story of David and Goliath took place in the Bible. This really brought to life the text study that we did on 1Samuel17.  As we stood on a hill overlooking the valley we could all imagine the battle scene. It was interesting that the simple story that we all remembered is quite different when you are there.  A couple of take-away lessons: when confronted with a problem, you must confront it with the knowledge that G'd is with you; Psalm 23 ("The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want) attributed to David is definitely tied to this place. If you follow the right path that G'd is leading you to then you will realize that you truly have what you need.  Also, there are significant similarities between the story of David and the story of Joseph (e.g. relationship with siblings, coat, etc.).

Yad Vashem

No trip to Jerusalem would be allegedly complete without a trip to Yad Vashem, the memorial to the six million victims of the holocaust.  I was very moved by the gardens surrounding the museum which were dedicated to the righteous gentiles (those non-Jewish individuals who saved Jews) and the remembrance to the children killed in the holocaust.  I was not moved by the museum itself however.  The museum is very different from the one I remember from 28 years ago. Because of the one built in Washington DC, it was felt that a newer, more modern structure needed to be built. Like the one in DC, I found the museum to be very sanitized in its depiction. For example, little was mentioned of the US, notably FDR, lack of response.

Yael and I had some time before we had to meet up with our group so we decided to find the library to look up some information (Yael: the kindertransport to Sweden that her mom, Trude, and aunt, Erika,  in which her mom and aunt were involved; Marty: the role of Dutch prostitutes in hiding Jews).

We first approached an information person in the visitor center to find the library. Yael began to ask "Shalom, 28 years we were here and...." before the woman cut her off by saying "Listen that was then, things are different now, so you need to be here now and not remember the past."  Definitely a strange this to say at a museum dedicated to remembering.  Yael persisted and we got the directions.

We had to wait before the only one librarian who spoke English was available.  Unfortunately, neither of us were able to find the information that we were seeking. It was strange that Trude's  experience has not been documented.  My question was met without a lot of skepticism.  I did get one lead which I will pursue on the Internet.

We made a small contribution for which we received lapel pins that we will wear when we get home.

NOTE 1:  I really want to find a way to bring a holocaust remembrance to Vermont.  Two of our fellow travelers, Ina and Jerry, told us about something their JCC is doing.  With Yael's strong encouragement I think it is something we may be able to do. Basically, six large plexiglass containers are constructed in which one million pennies can be held.  The Swampscott JCC has been doing this for two years and has filled less than half of one container.  It will probably take a decade to fill the containers but in the meanwhile the six structures serve as a very visible reminder.  Definitely something we plan to pursue back in Brattleboro.  You can read about the idea by visiting www.wickedlocal.com/swampscott/homepage/8999338106893107199.  

Note 2: Don't forget to check out Yael's blog http://sabra-travelstoisrael.blogspot.com for a chronological account our experience.

The Western Wall

Wow! Yael and I have visited the Western Wall four times in just two days. On one occasion I watched an orthodox person fervently pray and cry and pound the wall.  Then, his cell phone went off and he stopped.  Another time, we were there to celebrate Rosh Hodesh (the celebration of the new moon). We had learned that it was Rosh Hodesh when the restaurant (Rimon Cafe on Ben Yehuda Street) presented Yael and Ina with a rose.  The Kotel was packed with women, five or six deep).  Rob and I walked into the Western Wall library, a place where only men can enter. All of sudden a group of men began chanting prayers that Rob and I were able to join in. It was a very moving experience.  So far the highlight was a tour under the Western Wall where we got to touch the bedrock of Mt. Moriah where Abraham brought his son Isaac to be sacrificed.  Yael and I are planning to celebrate Shabbat this Friday night and Saturday by visiting the Kotel instead of attending a synagogue service.  After all, who needs a formal service when you're in the shadow the Western Wall.  

Note:  I've been thinking about how to bring Israel back to the Brattleboro Area Jewish Community.  Elaine has graciously offered to give BAJC a replica of the Western Wall that she had made up for the Bar Mitzvah of her grandson.  What a blessing.

Modern Israel Pioneers

Because of some Internet issues, I have not been able to post for past four days.  Yael has been posting our trip as well (http://sabra-travelstoisrael.blogspot.com) so you can read our chronological experience.

I am now going to move on to themes.  Today: Modern Jewish Pioneers

We have met several people that are living in the Negev.  Their daily life is surrounded by the beauty of the desert. 

First of is Tami.  She is an artist who lives in Mitzpe Ramon.  Her medium is wood but she has done many community projects in stone.  She lead us on a walking tour of Mitzpe Ramon to show us some of her work.  (In photo, she's the one sitting next to Yael).  She hasn't done art for the past five years since she is raising her young children. She shared her concerns about the Israel in its dealing of the Palestinian issue. Here was someone who clearly loved the land but is disillusioned with the politics.

Second up is Tehilda, another artist.  She is pursuing her art in the kitbutz of Ben Gurion. She is trying to find her place in the art world.  She's found that while Tel Aviv is a center it is not a place to live.  Her inspiration comes from the desert. She recently divorced her husband and is raising her two sons.  Slowly she is finding an appreciation of her art but unfortunately that does not translate into financial success.  One of her exhibitions included drawings on the back of a deck of cards.  These cards were then placed on tables in a coffee shop in Mitzpe Ramon.  Glass was placed over the cards so that you can view her art while drinking coffee. I was intrigued with her spirit and told her that I would find a way to help her.  Perhaps, I said, we can create a portal Web site for Israeli artists so each one can have a page or two to display their work.  She seemed very excited and I look forward to pursuing this upon my return.

Third up is Alon, the brick maker.  He was working for the Israeli government as an antiquities specialist.  He learned about adobe and decided that that was his calling.  He literally decided to live in the desert by putting four stakes into a piece of land and a tin roof over his head.  His talent is to turn desert earth into adobe bricks.  He makes each brick by hand and then after he makes about 1000 bricks, he trucks them to building contractors.  Adobe is an ancient building material that is environmentally sound.  He appeared happy about his life style.

Fourth is Eyal, the farmer.  Without a doubt, he is one of the most inspirational, upbeat people that we have met on this trip so far.  Eyal has returned to the desert and turned it into an incredible farm that produces grapes, oranges, and olives. He has studied biblical text and uses many of those ways to irrigate his land and grow delicious fruits.  He and his family has done this with little government help (or more important, interference).  He is a leader in his regional council and is heading to the Knesset this week to speak before a special committee looking into ways to encourage development of the Negev. Our group was able to sample wine that he has produced (we bought a bottle), delicious jams (we bought several) and incredible olives (yes, we bought those too).  Note to Jessica, we also bought a tee shirt that he designed for his farm. 

The final pioneer we met was Mariam, the desert daughter. Mariam is a Bedouin women who tells an inspirational story.  She is 31 years old, unmarried and has started a business selling herbs and other products drawn from ancient recipes. She is defying the traditonal view of women in her culture yet she is happily living among her culture. Mariam is a confident woman who clearly has a vision for herself.  You can check out an article about her by going to www.mysanantonio.com/life/MYSA051108_mariam_2080f97_html.html.

Masada - October 23, 2008

After a plentiful breakfast at the hotel, we took a short bus ride to Masada.  Yael and I had been there 28 years ago.  this time we decided to climb the snake path to the top instead of taking the cable car. Our group divided into three groups: (1) climbers, (2) riders and (3) visitor center stayers. It was a hot day as we began our trek.  Unfortunately, we only got a little less than half way up when we decided that the climb was too difficult.  We climbed down with Alan and Elaine to wait for the rest of the climbers and riders. Along the way, we spotted a family of ibex which made the climb very special.

Our next stop was Ein Gedi, an oasis in the desert. A short hike brought us to an incredible sight of interesting plants and running water.  We spotted a hydrex that appeared to pose for us. 

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at an old synagogue that was discovered accidently when a farmer was plowing his field.  It was over 1000 years old but you could still make out the Hebrew writing.  Our guide Nir pointed out that the language he reads and speaks today is the same as seen at this synagogue. 

Back at the hotel we had an opportunity to relax in the Dead Sea. It was marvelous. The water was warm as we entered. Fortunately, there were railings because my feet began to rise.  NOTE:  There were many warnings about not getting the minerals of the Dead Sea in your mouth or nose since this might lead to DEATH.  No splashing, no floating on your stomach!  Despite these warnings, we were in the water for about 25 minutes and felt so relaxed. We showered off the minerals and took a dip in the outdoor pool which was also warm and relaxing.

A quick shower and we were off to dinner which was better than last night's.  Then, a Torah text study of 1 Samuel 24: "David went there and stayed in the wilderness of En-gedi".  This was the very place we had visited earlier! The gist of the study is that in life we have choices to make and making the right choice is not always easy. 

Wednesday, October 22: You oughta be in pictures.

Yael and I had our last breakfast in Tel Aviv.  Two differences... one was the addition of shakkuka, a delicious egg dish and the other was that we met with Dov Gil-Har, president of Israeli Films. I had been emailing Dov this past year to obtain films for the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film & Food Festival (IF&F).  We hit it off immediately.  Ideas for the 3rd annual IF&F were forged, as well as some other ideas.  We gave Dov two stuffed VT moose for his two daughters, aged 6 & 3.  It should be fun for him to explain what a moose is.

Sad note... Dov told us that more Israeli's have been killed in auto accidents than in all the wars.  Having seen this aggressive driving first hand, I can believe it.

After we said goodbye to Aunt Erika, we took a train to Haifa.  We had arranged to leave our luggage at Har Hacarmel while we walked around Haifa. We climbed to the top of Mt. Carmel where there were breathtaking views of Haifa Harbor. I got to see the University of Haifa where Jessica had studied for a year in the distance. Then, we attended a Haifa Rotary Club meeting.  Not only did I get to exchange club banners but got to hear from the Mayor of Haifa and the minister of the navy.  While their talks were in Hebrew, folks were kind enough to give us the gist. In fact there were some people who knew Vermont. The food was fantastic, probably the best so far on the trip.

We took a train to Ben Gurion Airport to meet up with our group (19 including us).  A bus brought us to Hod Hamidbar, a resort hotel in Ein Bokek near the Dead Sea.  Since we were running late, we immediately were ushered into the dining hall.  A typical Israeli buffet awaited us, including gelato.  Exhausted, we fell into bed.

Plans for tomorrow include a climb to the top of Masada and a Torah text study.

Visit with Aunt Erika

Erika was excited for our visit. She had put on one of the new dresses that we had bought on Sunday.  Since she wanted to go to Dizengoff Square, we hailed a taxi.  The stores were still closed but we found a gelato cafe where Erika had a cup of lemon gelato.  This was something that she really wanted all summer and relished every bite.  We walked up Dizengoff Square in search of a place that she remembered in her past.  I am not sure if we every found it but she really enjoyed the walk.  We grabbed another taxi to go back to new facility.  As we were heading back, more and more people could be seen.  The holiday is over and now people are getting back to their lives.  I wonder if the high from the high holidays will remain.

We ended the day by visiting Yael's cousin Ruthie who was having a birthday party today for her husband Raffie. All of Yael's cousins were there.  While I entertained everyone with the photos on my computer, Yael was able to reconnect with family that she hasn't seen in 28 years.  All in all, a good "family" day.

Simchat Torah

Chag Semach.  Today is Simchat Torah and Yael and my anniversary.  We had breakfast in the sukkah and then went for a walk.  We could find no one dancing in the streets with Torahs.  In fact, there weren't many people about at all.  Like Shabbat, everything, but tourist places, was shut tight. 

We decided to visit Yael's aunt Sara who lives in Holon.  We had not seen her for 28 years.  A very short taxi ride (60 NIS)  and we were in her apartment.  The views were incredible from her terrace --- the Mediterranean Sea and Tel Aviv.  Sara mentioned that she too noticed that there was no dancing in the streets this year. While we were waiting for a taxi to take us back to Holon, we spotted another sukkah as well as some people returning from a synagogue.  

Next, we are going to visit with Aunt Erika.