Monday, October 20, 2008

Kilos of Love




Another wonderful breakfast at the hotel.  While most of the offerings are the same, there is always something new. Today, we decided to eat in the sukkah.  Despite Tel Aviv being a secular city, it's nice to celebrate a Jewish holiday in Israel.

After, Yael and I met with Dani Menkin and his wife Miriam.   I have stayed in touch with Dani since the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film and Food Festival.  Dani won an Israeli Academy award for 18 Kilos of Love.  His beautiful wife Miriam is an American who just made Aliyah in August.  She is pregnant with their first child.  They took us to Abu Hassan (1 Dolphin Street - on the hill) in Jaffa.  Purportedly, it is the best place for hummus.  And, they were right. Check it out: http://telavivguide.net/restaurants/Israel_cuisine_Restaurants/Tel_Aviv_Abu-Hasan_(Ali-Karavan)_in_jaffa_2005090813/ After, we strolled in Jaffa and really got to know one another.  I hope this relationship continues. 

When Dani and Miriam left, Yael and I decided to continue to explore Jaffa.  We stopped by the visitors' center to view a short film on the history of Jaffa.  Yael bought a lovely necklace from an Israeli artist, Sivan Kohen who just opened her shop two weeks ago.  We grabbed a quite bite and a beer at Aladdin, an outdoor cafe with a great view of Tel Aviv. Jaffa is quite different than I remember it from 28 years ago.  Noticeably, there were tourists from many countries but no Arabs.

Rather than taking a taxi (not called a cab) we walked along promenade to our hotel.  It took us a couple of hours but it was worth it.  We stopped along the way at different sheltered benches to gaze out at the Mediteranean.  We rewarded ourselves with a delicious gelato. (I had a chocolate pecan and Yael had coconut).  During the walk I noticed several people who were begging, as well as a couple of individuals who were rummaging through trash barrels looking for cans.  Like any big city, there are needy people.  Also, like any city, I saw people who had no regard for the environment and simply through their trash on the street, beach or sidewalk, even though there are plenty of trash receptacles. 

After a rest, we ventured out for dinner. Since it is now Simchat Torah, there were definitely less people strolling.  We found another restaurant on the beach where we enjoyed a falafel platter.  We walked along the beach.  The water was so warm.  Yael and I both commented how safe we feel here.  I am sure there is crime like any city but we still couldn't get over how secure we felt. Then we went to Kakoa, an espresso bar, for a cappacino and incredible apple cake.

As we were eating, we noticed that there were many Israeli families vacationing.   Unfortunately, the parents were engrossed in adult conversations, thereby allowing their children to run wild.  In fact, Yael rescued one small boy who fell down the stairs.  The parents didn't even get up to help. 

As we were walking by Buzz Stop, a bar next to Mike's Place, we noticed that there were two American flags that were badly tattered.  Since this place is just behind the US Embassy, I sent an email to the embassy to make them aware.  We will see if they respond.  By the way, Dani told us that Mike's Place was the scene of a terrible terrorist attack back in 2003.  You can check it out this sad history by visiting http://www.mikesplacebars.com/history.html.

The days are going by quickly.  But, Yael and I are feeling so relaxed.




Sunday, October 19, 2008

Sunday in Tel Aviv




Another fantastic breakfast.  Cannot get enough of the herrings and salads.

We visited with Yael's aunt Erika.  It turns out that her assisted living facility is two blocks from our hotel.  While Yael talked with the social worker, I shared photographs with Aunt Erika.  We were able to communicate despite her limited English. 

Since Erika needed some clothing, we grabbed a taxi and went to the Tel Aviv mall.  Since it is still holiday time here, the mall was packed with young kids.  There were many stores that you would see in any mall back home.  Big difference was the prices (higher) and the signs (all in Hebrew).  After successfully buying some dresses and blouses, we had lunch at the mall pizza place which happened to be kosher.  New York has nothing to worry.

The best part of the day came after.  We were able to arrange a Skype phone call between Erika and Trude, Yael's mother.  They have not seen each other in three years.  It was incredible to witness this event.  Calls to Jessica and Rachel enabled Erika to see our kids as well.

We had dinner in the hotel.  Erika really wanted chocolate milk, something she has craved for awhile.  She also wanted to bring back some apple cake for her roommate Anna.  We were able to accomplish this and more.... a stop at the local candy store where she got some lemon cough drops and chocolate candy. 

For Erika is was a blessing from God.  For us, it was as well.  



Parking in Tel Aviv


Forgot to include this photo in last post.  Really glad we don't have a car in Tel Aviv!

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Saturday Shabbat in Tel Aviv















After our delicious and filling breakfast, Yael and I decided to walk to the Tel Aviv Art Museum. 
The walk was an incredible experience of Shabbat.  All the hustle and bustle of yesterday was gone.  The streets were relatively empty and most of the stores and restaurants were closed.  For the first time I truly appreciated the concept of Shabbat.  As we strolled the quiet streets, I was able to observe some real urban wonders. First, there are beautiful flowers in front of people's residences. While there is some garbage in the streets, there are numerous places to recycle bottles.  Because there are so many cars, people will park wherever they think they can find a space, even if there isn't one. And, I got to sit in one of the many Sukkahs left open for anyone. 

It took us about 1/2 hour to walk to the museum but it was well worth it.  The museum has an eclectic collection --- Picasso, Renoir, Matisse as well as Chagall can be found in the many rooms. We bought some souvenirs -- an unusual picture viewer of a Chagall painting, a 2009 Israeli calendar and an artistic salt and pepper shaker for Yael's cousins.  We had fun posing our stuffed moose, Gunter, on various sculptures.  Note... Gunter will be appearing in places throughout this blog, so keep watching! 

When we got back, we decided to go to the beach.  The sand was smooth, the water was warm and the view was soothing.  We rented a couple of lounge chairs and just gazed out on the Mediterranean Sea.  Yael spotted a couple of women sunbathing in the nude. What a country! A young Arab boy came by to sell delicious, fresh pretzels. We watched another sunset. A great way to celebrate Shabbat.

After a quick shower, we arranged for a taxi to take us to Yael's cousin, Izzy who lives in Ashdod.  We learned a traveler's lesson.... we didn't negotiate the price nor ask for a receipt so we paid about 60 NIS more than we should have.  We had a short visit because Izzy had to go to work at the Sheraton near the diamond center.  We took a train back to Tel Aviv (only 34 NIS) and then grabbed a taxi (35 NIS) back to our hotel.  Because Shabbat was over, the train was quite crowded.  There were many young soldiers.  I watched two soldiers, one male and female, no more than 19 years old, try to clear his machine gun which has gotten jammed with dust.  They were giggling as they were pulling at the hopefully unloaded gun as if it were a toy.  When we arrived at the station, they were joined by scores of their fellow soldiers. 

It was nine o'clock and we hadn't eaten dinner yet.  We had heard good things from Yehudah about Mike's Place, a restaurant near the American Embassy.  As we walked by the Embassy, we noticed a lot of security.  Mike's Place was like being in a US restaurant.  I ordered a hamburger and a Maccabee beer while listening to live jazz music.
The  Mediterranean Sea could be seen and heard across the street.  So ends night two.

Shabbat Breakfast







Woke up and went to a wonderful Israeli breakfast.  The choices were all excellent.  It's funny that I had to travel all the way to Israel to eat smoked white fish.  Heard a lot of different languages around the breakfast cafe.  There is a tour group from Norway.  However, everything was very orderly and relaxed.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Shabbat in Tel Aviv












Yael and I caught the sunset over the Mediterranean Sea.  There were giant kites that looked fantastic in the sunset. We strolled along the promenade enjoying the incredible views and weather. There are lots of hotels overlooking the beach. We will stop in at the better known Dan Tel Aviv tomorrow but spotted some unusually designed ones. Can't wait to dip our toes in the water tomorrow!

Then, we met Dalit's parents, Tamar & Yehudah for dinner. They treated us to a wonderful meal at Forelin on Frishman Street. Yael had a fish stew and fish kabobs.  They also prepared a special iced tea for her. I had a delicious salad followed by a tasty trout FROM northern Israel. I also had a Maccabee beer and an espresso.

We then drove to the harbor which has been redeveloped over the past five years. We strolled from 9:30 to Midnight along the boardwalk. The place was hopping with many restaurants, stores and people. While Yehudah was giving me a guided tour and history, I was marveling at how wonderful it felt to be among so many Jews. There is a vibrancy to the place, as well as a strong sense of security. There was an art exhibit from students at an advertising class. Their assignment was to develop a poster that promotes the harbor. My favorite was "Why go to Greece when everything is here."  We stopped at Aroma, an Israeli version of Starbucks (which is no longer in Israel), for cappacinos. It was so relaxing. As I looked out into the sea, I imagined what it was like to watch ships like Exodus arrive in Israel. Tamar and Yehudah were excellent hosts and have become really good friends. As we were leaving the harbor, I spotted a sign for the NY Times Square subway stop.  The world really is a small space

We arrived in Tel Aviv




The 11-hour trip was uneventful.  Amazing that 300 people can fly through the air non stop and arrive in Tel Aviv.  Interesting mix of people with a lot of praying going on. Applause as the plane landed. 

We were going to lease a car but those plans got changed.  We ended up taking a taxi from the airport to our hotel.  Just as well as I don't think driving here is easy.  And, the signs are all in Hebrew!

Our room wasn't ready at the Metropolitan Hotel so we took a walk to Dizengoff Square.  It was like being in New York's Chinatown. What a contrast from 28 years ago. Found an air conditioned place to have our first falafel.  

Got into our room (711) with a fantastic view of the Mediterranean Sea.

Taking a short nap before visiting the beach and going out to dinner with Dalit's parents.