Modern Israel Pioneers

Because of some Internet issues, I have not been able to post for past four days.  Yael has been posting our trip as well (http://sabra-travelstoisrael.blogspot.com) so you can read our chronological experience.

I am now going to move on to themes.  Today: Modern Jewish Pioneers

We have met several people that are living in the Negev.  Their daily life is surrounded by the beauty of the desert. 

First of is Tami.  She is an artist who lives in Mitzpe Ramon.  Her medium is wood but she has done many community projects in stone.  She lead us on a walking tour of Mitzpe Ramon to show us some of her work.  (In photo, she's the one sitting next to Yael).  She hasn't done art for the past five years since she is raising her young children. She shared her concerns about the Israel in its dealing of the Palestinian issue. Here was someone who clearly loved the land but is disillusioned with the politics.

Second up is Tehilda, another artist.  She is pursuing her art in the kitbutz of Ben Gurion. She is trying to find her place in the art world.  She's found that while Tel Aviv is a center it is not a place to live.  Her inspiration comes from the desert. She recently divorced her husband and is raising her two sons.  Slowly she is finding an appreciation of her art but unfortunately that does not translate into financial success.  One of her exhibitions included drawings on the back of a deck of cards.  These cards were then placed on tables in a coffee shop in Mitzpe Ramon.  Glass was placed over the cards so that you can view her art while drinking coffee. I was intrigued with her spirit and told her that I would find a way to help her.  Perhaps, I said, we can create a portal Web site for Israeli artists so each one can have a page or two to display their work.  She seemed very excited and I look forward to pursuing this upon my return.

Third up is Alon, the brick maker.  He was working for the Israeli government as an antiquities specialist.  He learned about adobe and decided that that was his calling.  He literally decided to live in the desert by putting four stakes into a piece of land and a tin roof over his head.  His talent is to turn desert earth into adobe bricks.  He makes each brick by hand and then after he makes about 1000 bricks, he trucks them to building contractors.  Adobe is an ancient building material that is environmentally sound.  He appeared happy about his life style.

Fourth is Eyal, the farmer.  Without a doubt, he is one of the most inspirational, upbeat people that we have met on this trip so far.  Eyal has returned to the desert and turned it into an incredible farm that produces grapes, oranges, and olives. He has studied biblical text and uses many of those ways to irrigate his land and grow delicious fruits.  He and his family has done this with little government help (or more important, interference).  He is a leader in his regional council and is heading to the Knesset this week to speak before a special committee looking into ways to encourage development of the Negev. Our group was able to sample wine that he has produced (we bought a bottle), delicious jams (we bought several) and incredible olives (yes, we bought those too).  Note to Jessica, we also bought a tee shirt that he designed for his farm. 

The final pioneer we met was Mariam, the desert daughter. Mariam is a Bedouin women who tells an inspirational story.  She is 31 years old, unmarried and has started a business selling herbs and other products drawn from ancient recipes. She is defying the traditonal view of women in her culture yet she is happily living among her culture. Mariam is a confident woman who clearly has a vision for herself.  You can check out an article about her by going to www.mysanantonio.com/life/MYSA051108_mariam_2080f97_html.html.

Masada - October 23, 2008

After a plentiful breakfast at the hotel, we took a short bus ride to Masada.  Yael and I had been there 28 years ago.  this time we decided to climb the snake path to the top instead of taking the cable car. Our group divided into three groups: (1) climbers, (2) riders and (3) visitor center stayers. It was a hot day as we began our trek.  Unfortunately, we only got a little less than half way up when we decided that the climb was too difficult.  We climbed down with Alan and Elaine to wait for the rest of the climbers and riders. Along the way, we spotted a family of ibex which made the climb very special.

Our next stop was Ein Gedi, an oasis in the desert. A short hike brought us to an incredible sight of interesting plants and running water.  We spotted a hydrex that appeared to pose for us. 

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at an old synagogue that was discovered accidently when a farmer was plowing his field.  It was over 1000 years old but you could still make out the Hebrew writing.  Our guide Nir pointed out that the language he reads and speaks today is the same as seen at this synagogue. 

Back at the hotel we had an opportunity to relax in the Dead Sea. It was marvelous. The water was warm as we entered. Fortunately, there were railings because my feet began to rise.  NOTE:  There were many warnings about not getting the minerals of the Dead Sea in your mouth or nose since this might lead to DEATH.  No splashing, no floating on your stomach!  Despite these warnings, we were in the water for about 25 minutes and felt so relaxed. We showered off the minerals and took a dip in the outdoor pool which was also warm and relaxing.

A quick shower and we were off to dinner which was better than last night's.  Then, a Torah text study of 1 Samuel 24: "David went there and stayed in the wilderness of En-gedi".  This was the very place we had visited earlier! The gist of the study is that in life we have choices to make and making the right choice is not always easy. 

Wednesday, October 22: You oughta be in pictures.

Yael and I had our last breakfast in Tel Aviv.  Two differences... one was the addition of shakkuka, a delicious egg dish and the other was that we met with Dov Gil-Har, president of Israeli Films. I had been emailing Dov this past year to obtain films for the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film & Food Festival (IF&F).  We hit it off immediately.  Ideas for the 3rd annual IF&F were forged, as well as some other ideas.  We gave Dov two stuffed VT moose for his two daughters, aged 6 & 3.  It should be fun for him to explain what a moose is.

Sad note... Dov told us that more Israeli's have been killed in auto accidents than in all the wars.  Having seen this aggressive driving first hand, I can believe it.

After we said goodbye to Aunt Erika, we took a train to Haifa.  We had arranged to leave our luggage at Har Hacarmel while we walked around Haifa. We climbed to the top of Mt. Carmel where there were breathtaking views of Haifa Harbor. I got to see the University of Haifa where Jessica had studied for a year in the distance. Then, we attended a Haifa Rotary Club meeting.  Not only did I get to exchange club banners but got to hear from the Mayor of Haifa and the minister of the navy.  While their talks were in Hebrew, folks were kind enough to give us the gist. In fact there were some people who knew Vermont. The food was fantastic, probably the best so far on the trip.

We took a train to Ben Gurion Airport to meet up with our group (19 including us).  A bus brought us to Hod Hamidbar, a resort hotel in Ein Bokek near the Dead Sea.  Since we were running late, we immediately were ushered into the dining hall.  A typical Israeli buffet awaited us, including gelato.  Exhausted, we fell into bed.

Plans for tomorrow include a climb to the top of Masada and a Torah text study.

Visit with Aunt Erika

Erika was excited for our visit. She had put on one of the new dresses that we had bought on Sunday.  Since she wanted to go to Dizengoff Square, we hailed a taxi.  The stores were still closed but we found a gelato cafe where Erika had a cup of lemon gelato.  This was something that she really wanted all summer and relished every bite.  We walked up Dizengoff Square in search of a place that she remembered in her past.  I am not sure if we every found it but she really enjoyed the walk.  We grabbed another taxi to go back to new facility.  As we were heading back, more and more people could be seen.  The holiday is over and now people are getting back to their lives.  I wonder if the high from the high holidays will remain.

We ended the day by visiting Yael's cousin Ruthie who was having a birthday party today for her husband Raffie. All of Yael's cousins were there.  While I entertained everyone with the photos on my computer, Yael was able to reconnect with family that she hasn't seen in 28 years.  All in all, a good "family" day.

Simchat Torah

Chag Semach.  Today is Simchat Torah and Yael and my anniversary.  We had breakfast in the sukkah and then went for a walk.  We could find no one dancing in the streets with Torahs.  In fact, there weren't many people about at all.  Like Shabbat, everything, but tourist places, was shut tight. 

We decided to visit Yael's aunt Sara who lives in Holon.  We had not seen her for 28 years.  A very short taxi ride (60 NIS)  and we were in her apartment.  The views were incredible from her terrace --- the Mediterranean Sea and Tel Aviv.  Sara mentioned that she too noticed that there was no dancing in the streets this year. While we were waiting for a taxi to take us back to Holon, we spotted another sukkah as well as some people returning from a synagogue.  

Next, we are going to visit with Aunt Erika.

Kilos of Love

Another wonderful breakfast at the hotel.  While most of the offerings are the same, there is always something new. Today, we decided to eat in the sukkah.  Despite Tel Aviv being a secular city, it's nice to celebrate a Jewish holiday in Israel.

After, Yael and I met with Dani Menkin and his wife Miriam.   I have stayed in touch with Dani since the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film and Food Festival.  Dani won an Israeli Academy award for 18 Kilos of Love.  His beautiful wife Miriam is an American who just made Aliyah in August.  She is pregnant with their first child.  They took us to Abu Hassan (1 Dolphin Street - on the hill) in Jaffa.  Purportedly, it is the best place for hummus.  And, they were right. Check it out: http://telavivguide.net/restaurants/Israel_cuisine_Restaurants/Tel_Aviv_Abu-Hasan_(Ali-Karavan)_in_jaffa_2005090813/ After, we strolled in Jaffa and really got to know one another.  I hope this relationship continues. 

When Dani and Miriam left, Yael and I decided to continue to explore Jaffa.  We stopped by the visitors' center to view a short film on the history of Jaffa.  Yael bought a lovely necklace from an Israeli artist, Sivan Kohen who just opened her shop two weeks ago.  We grabbed a quite bite and a beer at Aladdin, an outdoor cafe with a great view of Tel Aviv. Jaffa is quite different than I remember it from 28 years ago.  Noticeably, there were tourists from many countries but no Arabs.

Rather than taking a taxi (not called a cab) we walked along promenade to our hotel.  It took us a couple of hours but it was worth it.  We stopped along the way at different sheltered benches to gaze out at the Mediteranean.  We rewarded ourselves with a delicious gelato. (I had a chocolate pecan and Yael had coconut).  During the walk I noticed several people who were begging, as well as a couple of individuals who were rummaging through trash barrels looking for cans.  Like any big city, there are needy people.  Also, like any city, I saw people who had no regard for the environment and simply through their trash on the street, beach or sidewalk, even though there are plenty of trash receptacles. 

After a rest, we ventured out for dinner. Since it is now Simchat Torah, there were definitely less people strolling.  We found another restaurant on the beach where we enjoyed a falafel platter.  We walked along the beach.  The water was so warm.  Yael and I both commented how safe we feel here.  I am sure there is crime like any city but we still couldn't get over how secure we felt. Then we went to Kakoa, an espresso bar, for a cappacino and incredible apple cake.

As we were eating, we noticed that there were many Israeli families vacationing.   Unfortunately, the parents were engrossed in adult conversations, thereby allowing their children to run wild.  In fact, Yael rescued one small boy who fell down the stairs.  The parents didn't even get up to help. 

As we were walking by Buzz Stop, a bar next to Mike's Place, we noticed that there were two American flags that were badly tattered.  Since this place is just behind the US Embassy, I sent an email to the embassy to make them aware.  We will see if they respond.  By the way, Dani told us that Mike's Place was the scene of a terrible terrorist attack back in 2003.  You can check it out this sad history by visiting http://www.mikesplacebars.com/history.html.

The days are going by quickly.  But, Yael and I are feeling so relaxed.

Sunday in Tel Aviv

Another fantastic breakfast.  Cannot get enough of the herrings and salads.

We visited with Yael's aunt Erika.  It turns out that her assisted living facility is two blocks from our hotel.  While Yael talked with the social worker, I shared photographs with Aunt Erika.  We were able to communicate despite her limited English. 

Since Erika needed some clothing, we grabbed a taxi and went to the Tel Aviv mall.  Since it is still holiday time here, the mall was packed with young kids.  There were many stores that you would see in any mall back home.  Big difference was the prices (higher) and the signs (all in Hebrew).  After successfully buying some dresses and blouses, we had lunch at the mall pizza place which happened to be kosher.  New York has nothing to worry.

The best part of the day came after.  We were able to arrange a Skype phone call between Erika and Trude, Yael's mother.  They have not seen each other in three years.  It was incredible to witness this event.  Calls to Jessica and Rachel enabled Erika to see our kids as well.

We had dinner in the hotel.  Erika really wanted chocolate milk, something she has craved for awhile.  She also wanted to bring back some apple cake for her roommate Anna.  We were able to accomplish this and more.... a stop at the local candy store where she got some lemon cough drops and chocolate candy. 

For Erika is was a blessing from God.  For us, it was as well.