The Journey

We're Home

2008-11-03T08:33:00.000-08:00

We arrived safely back in Vermont. It's good to be back. Yael and I have shared an incredible experience together with some wonderful memories. Over the next few days, I will reread my blog, as well as Yael's to add some more thoughts.

Five important ones....

1. I can't say enough how great it was to travel and study with Rabbi Alan Ullman. His insights into Torah truly elevated me.

2. Our Israeli guide, Nir Ofer, shepherded us through the desert and made this trip as fantastic as it was. He attended to our every need. His knowledge of Israel and Torah was a tremendous asset and blessing to us all.

3. I came away from Israel with a real appreciation of David Ben Gurion. He was a modern day Moses in that he led the children of Israel into statehood. His vision for Israel and for the desert in particular is inspiring. I plan to read more about him both autobiographical, biographical and historical fiction (e.g. The Hope by Herman Wouk).

4. My fellow travelers definitely helped to make this a trip to remember. Over the course of a mere 10 days, we bonded in such a way that I am confident we have forged a lasting relationship. Each one of us brought his or her insights to our studies that I lost track of all of the "aha" moments. The camaraderie was another blessing of this trip.

5. I truly felt safe wherever we walked in Israel. I had a real sense of belonging. However, there were definitely reminders of the fragility of peace. Not only did you see soldiers (sadly very young) with guns (although less than I remember from 28 years ago), you couldn't help but notice the bullet fragments in the walls. Experiencing Israel renewed my commitment to its well being.

Another Western Wall story

2008-10-31T12:51:00.001-07:00

On Friday morning, we had some free time so Yael and I decided to go to the Kotel (the Western Wall). I was once again able to walk right up to the wall and pray. After a few minutes, I stepped back from the Wall, found a wooden lectern and opened a prayer pamphlet that Alan had given us. There were many tourists around me. I kept noticing fathers taking pictures of their sons. I offered to take pictures of the fathers and sons together.

An orthodox Jew came up to me to ask if I was a rabbi. I said no. "But you at least must be a kohen (a member of the high priests)," he said. "Why?" I asked. "Because I have been watching you and you kept interrupting your prayers to help others," he answered.

He then beckoned me to go inside the library and stand before one of the arks. There he offered a blessing for my family. We kissed the siddur and ark curtain. Then, he told me that we helped a Jewish orphanage. I immediately offered him 20 NIS. He appeared insulted and

told me that for me to truly receive a blessing I should give the number that he typed out on his cell phone--170 NIS. I again offered him 20 NIS. "You don't understand," he said, " one must give tzedukah (charity) until it hurts so that you can benefit from the act." "No," I said, "One should not give tzedukah beyond ones means because one should not be hurt by the commandment of tzedukah." He paused and said, "You are a rabbi!" "Therefore, when I give you this 20 NIS its as if I am giving you 170 NIS," I added. He didn't want to take the 20 NIS until I pointed out that one must not turn back tzedukah because that would hinder someone from performing the mitzvah. He took the 20 NIS. We walked out of the library with our arms around each others waists. He kissed me on both cheeks. "You are a rabbi because I have learned something from you. Shabbat Shalom." he said as we parted ways.

Jerusalem Shopping

2008-10-31T12:34:00.000-07:00

One of the reasons for coming to Jerusalem is the shopping. Walking through the Cardo (the Jewish Quarter) or the Arab shuk is quite an experience. The Jewish Quarter is fairly clean and quiet while the Arab shuk is crowded and dark. We really wanted to buy as much as we could in the Jewish Quarter so that it would benefit Israelis. However, we also decided to spend some money in the Arab shuk, as well. We bought Judaica for our daughters. Jessica was easy since she asked for a new tallit (prayer shawl). Rachel wasn't as specific but we found a beautiful and unusual silver necklace. Yael bought some jewelry for herself. I bought a new kippa. However, Yael was able to find beautiful scarves in the Arab shuk for only $2 each. We also found another unusual Ivory necklace for Rachel made by a Palestinian. It was definitely an experience.

Also found in the Arab shuk is the best halavah (a dessert made from sesame seeds and sugar). We bought a 1/2 kilo of pistachio and a 1/2 kilo of marble when we first arrived which we shared with our group. We will be bringing this delicious product home to Vermont to share with our friends, as well.

NOTE 1: My memory of 28 years ago was aggressive selling. This trip was fairly passive. No one was calling us into their shop.

NOTE 2: Faith had asked me to bring back some specific items that she had seen on her trip one year ago. Unfortunately, I could not find them despite going to several shops. I was told that inventories are down due to the economy and season.

NOTE 3: Besides the kippah or yarmulke, I didn't buy anything tangible for myself. As I was going in and out of shops buying souvenirs for others, I realized that the only take away I wanted from Israel was what I got..... a true spiritual enrichment.

Museum of the Seam

2008-10-31T08:35:00.000-07:00

Thanks to one of our fellow travelers, Ron, we visited the Museum of the Seam. From 1948 to 1967, the house was used as an Israeli Military Outpost. The post was situated on the seam line between Israel and Jordan, across from the Mandelbaum Crossing, which was the only crossing point between East and West Jerusalem. The museum was established by Raphie Etgar as a site for peace and tolerance. Raphie guided us through the current exhibit, Heartquake since it's more famous, Coexistence, is on tour. The exhibit was moving. For example, a video showed a series of people reacting to something. Was it a funeral or a tragic scene didn't matter but you saw how it affected everyone. Another showed a figure lying on a table with large hands over the body. Were the hands there to help or hurt? After viewing over 35 paintings, sculptures or video representations, you found yourself on the roof of the museum looking out to see the differences between East and West Jerusalem. While both sides are now under Israeli control, you can only imagine the arbitrary line that once divided the city. The final exhibit was a children's play swing erected on the roof railing. Here you saw a safe child's play toy swinging precariously over the edge. No easy answers.

NOTE 1: When Raphie heard that we had gone to the desert to tour and study, he expressed the view that there was nothing there. Boy was he off base!

Valley of Elah

2008-10-31T08:24:00.000-07:00

Our group visited the Valley of Elah, the place where the story of David and Goliath took place in the Bible. This really brought to life the text study that we did on 1Samuel17. As we stood on a hill overlooking the valley we could all imagine the battle scene. It was interesting that the simple story that we all remembered is quite different when you are there. A couple of take-away lessons: when confronted with a problem, you must confront it with the knowledge that G'd is with you; Psalm 23 ("The Lord is my shepherd, I shall not want) attributed to David is definitely tied to this place. If you follow the right path that G'd is leading you to then you will realize that you truly have what you need. Also, there are significant similarities between the story of David and the story of Joseph (e.g. relationship with siblings, coat, etc.).

Yad Vashem

2008-10-31T08:00:00.000-07:00

No trip to Jerusalem would be allegedly complete without a trip to Yad Vashem, the memorial to the six million victims of the holocaust. I was very moved by the gardens surrounding the museum which were dedicated to the righteous gentiles (those non-Jewish individuals who saved Jews) and the remembrance to the children killed in the holocaust. I was not moved by the museum itself however. The museum is very different from the one I remember from 28 years ago. Because of the one built in Washington DC, it was felt that a newer, more modern structure needed to be built. Like the one in DC, I found the museum to be very sanitized in its depiction. For example, little was mentioned of the US, notably FDR, lack of response.

Yael and I had some time before we had to meet up with our group so we decided to find the library to look up some information (Yael: the kindertransport to Sweden that her mom, Trude, and aunt, Erika, in which her mom and aunt were involved; Marty: the role of Dutch prostitutes in hiding Jews).

We first approached an information person in the visitor center to find the library. Yael began to ask "Shalom, 28 years we were here and...." before the woman cut her off by saying "Listen that was then, things are different now, so you need to be here now and not remember the past." Definitely a strange this to say at a museum dedicated to remembering. Yael persisted and we got the directions.

We had to wait before the only one librarian who spoke English was available. Unfortunately, neither of us were able to find the information that we were seeking. It was strange that Trude's experience has not been documented. My question was met without a lot of skepticism. I did get one lead which I will pursue on the Internet.

We made a small contribution for which we received lapel pins that we will wear when we get home.

NOTE 1: I really want to find a way to bring a holocaust remembrance to Vermont. Two of our fellow travelers, Ina and Jerry, told us about something their JCC is doing. With Yael's strong encouragement I think it is something we may be able to do. Basically, six large plexiglass containers are constructed in which one million pennies can be held. The Swampscott JCC has been doing this for two years and has filled less than half of one container. It will probably take a decade to fill the containers but in the meanwhile the six structures serve as a very visible reminder. Definitely something we plan to pursue back in Brattleboro. You can read about the idea by visiting www.wickedlocal.com/swampscott/homepage/8999338106893107199.

Note 2: Don't forget to check out Yael's blog http://sabra-travelstoisrael.blogspot.com for a chronological account our experience.

The Western Wall

2008-10-29T13:48:00.000-07:00

Wow! Yael and I have visited the Western Wall four times in just two days. On one occasion I watched an orthodox person fervently pray and cry and pound the wall. Then, his cell phone went off and he stopped. Another time, we were there to celebrate Rosh Hodesh (the celebration of the new moon). We had learned that it was Rosh Hodesh when the restaurant (Rimon Cafe on Ben Yehuda Street) presented Yael and Ina with a rose. The Kotel was packed with women, five or six deep). Rob and I walked into the Western Wall library, a place where only men can enter. All of sudden a group of men began chanting prayers that Rob and I were able to join in. It was a very moving experience. So far the highlight was a tour under the Western Wall where we got to touch the bedrock of Mt. Moriah where Abraham brought his son Isaac to be sacrificed. Yael and I are planning to celebrate Shabbat this Friday night and Saturday by visiting the Kotel instead of attending a synagogue service. After all, who needs a formal service when you're in the shadow the Western Wall.

Note: I've been thinking about how to bring Israel back to the Brattleboro Area Jewish Community. Elaine has graciously offered to give BAJC a replica of the Western Wall that she had made up for the Bar Mitzvah of her grandson. What a blessing.

Modern Israel Pioneers

2008-10-27T22:05:00.000-07:00

Because of some Internet issues, I have not been able to post for past four days. Yael has been posting our trip as well (http://sabra-travelstoisrael.blogspot.com) so you can read our chronological experience.

I am now going to move on to themes. Today: Modern Jewish Pioneers

We have met several people that are living in the Negev. Their daily life is surrounded by the beauty of the desert.

First of is Tami. She is an artist who lives in Mitzpe Ramon. Her medium is wood but she has done many community projects in stone. She lead us on a walking tour of Mitzpe Ramon to show us some of her work. (In photo, she's the one sitting next to Yael). She hasn't done art for the past five years since she is raising her young children. She shared her concerns about the Israel in its dealing of the Palestinian issue. Here was someone who clearly loved the land but is disillusioned with the politics.

Second up is Tehilda, another artist. She is pursuing her art in the kitbutz of Ben Gurion. She is trying to find her place in the art world. She's found that while Tel Aviv is a center it is not a place to live. Her inspiration comes from the desert. She recently divorced her husband and is raising her two sons. Slowly she is finding an appreciation of her art but unfortunately that does not translate into financial success. One of her exhibitions included drawings on the back of a deck of cards. These cards were then placed on tables in a coffee shop in Mitzpe Ramon. Glass was placed over the cards so that you can view her art while drinking coffee. I was intrigued with her spirit and told her that I would find a way to help her. Perhaps, I said, we can create a portal Web site for Israeli artists so each one can have a page or two to display their work. She seemed very excited and I look forward to pursuing this upon my return.

Third up is Alon, the brick maker. He was working for the Israeli government as an antiquities specialist. He learned about adobe and decided that that was his calling. He literally decided to live in the desert by putting four stakes into a piece of land and a tin roof over his head. His talent is to turn desert earth into adobe bricks. He makes each brick by hand and then after he makes about 1000 bricks, he trucks them to building contractors. Adobe is an ancient building material that is environmentally sound. He appeared happy about his life style.

Fourth is Eyal, the farmer. Without a doubt, he is one of the most inspirational, upbeat people that we have met on this trip so far. Eyal has returned to the desert and turned it into an incredible farm that produces grapes, oranges, and olives. He has studied biblical text and uses many of those ways to irrigate his land and grow delicious fruits. He and his family has done this with little government help (or more important, interference). He is a leader in his regional council and is heading to the Knesset this week to speak before a special committee looking into ways to encourage development of the Negev. Our group was able to sample wine that he has produced (we bought a bottle), delicious jams (we bought several) and incredible olives (yes, we bought those too). Note to Jessica, we also bought a tee shirt that he designed for his farm.

The final pioneer we met was Mariam, the desert daughter. Mariam is a Bedouin women who tells an inspirational story. She is 31 years old, unmarried and has started a business selling herbs and other products drawn from ancient recipes. She is defying the traditonal view of women in her culture yet she is happily living among her culture. Mariam is a confident woman who clearly has a vision for herself. You can check out an article about her by going to www.mysanantonio.com/life/MYSA051108_mariam_2080f97_html.html.

Masada - October 23, 2008

2008-10-25T11:24:00.000-07:00

After a plentiful breakfast at the hotel, we took a short bus ride to Masada. Yael and I had been there 28 years ago. this time we decided to climb the snake path to the top instead of taking the cable car. Our group divided into three groups: (1) climbers, (2) riders and (3) visitor center stayers. It was a hot day as we began our trek. Unfortunately, we only got a little less than half way up when we decided that the climb was too difficult. We climbed down with Alan and Elaine to wait for the rest of the climbers and riders. Along the way, we spotted a family of ibex which made the climb very special.

Our next stop was Ein Gedi, an oasis in the desert. A short hike brought us to an incredible sight of interesting plants and running water. We spotted a hydrex that appeared to pose for us.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at an old synagogue that was discovered accidently when a farmer was plowing his field. It was over 1000 years old but you could still make out the Hebrew writing. Our guide Nir pointed out that the language he reads and speaks today is the same as seen at this synagogue.

Back at the hotel we had an opportunity to relax in the Dead Sea. It was marvelous. The water was warm as we entered. Fortunately, there were railings because my feet began to rise. NOTE: There were many warnings about not getting the minerals of the Dead Sea in your mouth or nose since this might lead to DEATH. No splashing, no floating on your stomach! Despite these warnings, we were in the water for about 25 minutes and felt so relaxed. We showered off the minerals and took a dip in the outdoor pool which was also warm and relaxing.

A quick shower and we were off to dinner which was better than last night's. Then, a Torah text study of 1 Samuel 24: "David went there and stayed in the wilderness of En-gedi". This was the very place we had visited earlier! The gist of the study is that in life we have choices to make and making the right choice is not always easy.

Wednesday, October 22: You oughta be in pictures.

2008-10-24T06:55:00.000-07:00

Yael and I had our last breakfast in Tel Aviv. Two differences... one was the addition of shakkuka, a delicious egg dish and the other was that we met with Dov Gil-Har, president of Israeli Films. I had been emailing Dov this past year to obtain films for the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film & Food Festival (IF&F). We hit it off immediately. Ideas for the 3rd annual IF&F were forged, as well as some other ideas. We gave Dov two stuffed VT moose for his two daughters, aged 6 & 3. It should be fun for him to explain what a moose is.

Sad note... Dov told us that more Israeli's have been killed in auto accidents than in all the wars. Having seen this aggressive driving first hand, I can believe it.

After we said goodbye to Aunt Erika, we took a train to Haifa. We had arranged to leave our luggage at Har Hacarmel while we walked around Haifa. We climbed to the top of Mt. Carmel where there were breathtaking views of Haifa Harbor. I got to see the University of Haifa where Jessica had studied for a year in the distance. Then, we attended a Haifa Rotary Club meeting. Not only did I get to exchange club banners but got to hear from the Mayor of Haifa and the minister of the navy. While their talks were in Hebrew, folks were kind enough to give us the gist. In fact there were some people who knew Vermont. The food was fantastic, probably the best so far on the trip.

We took a train to Ben Gurion Airport to meet up with our group (19 including us). A bus brought us to Hod Hamidbar, a resort hotel in Ein Bokek near the Dead Sea. Since we were running late, we immediately were ushered into the dining hall. A typical Israeli buffet awaited us, including gelato. Exhausted, we fell into bed.

Plans for tomorrow include a climb to the top of Masada and a Torah text study.

Visit with Aunt Erika

2008-10-21T09:36:00.000-07:00

Erika was excited for our visit. She had put on one of the new dresses that we had bought on Sunday. Since she wanted to go to Dizengoff Square, we hailed a taxi. The stores were still closed but we found a gelato cafe where Erika had a cup of lemon gelato. This was something that she really wanted all summer and relished every bite. We walked up Dizengoff Square in search of a place that she remembered in her past. I am not sure if we every found it but she really enjoyed the walk. We grabbed another taxi to go back to new facility. As we were heading back, more and more people could be seen. The holiday is over and now people are getting back to their lives. I wonder if the high from the high holidays will remain.

We ended the day by visiting Yael's cousin Ruthie who was having a birthday party today for her husband Raffie. All of Yael's cousins were there. While I entertained everyone with the photos on my computer, Yael was able to reconnect with family that she hasn't seen in 28 years. All in all, a good "family" day.

Simchat Torah

2008-10-21T05:54:00.000-07:00

Chag Semach. Today is Simchat Torah and Yael and my anniversary. We had breakfast in the sukkah and then went for a walk. We could find no one dancing in the streets with Torahs. In fact, there weren't many people about at all. Like Shabbat, everything, but tourist places, was shut tight.

We decided to visit Yael's aunt Sara who lives in Holon. We had not seen her for 28 years. A very short taxi ride (60 NIS) and we were in her apartment. The views were incredible from her terrace --- the Mediterranean Sea and Tel Aviv. Sara mentioned that she too noticed that there was no dancing in the streets this year. While we were waiting for a taxi to take us back to Holon, we spotted another sukkah as well as some people returning from a synagogue.

Next, we are going to visit with Aunt Erika.

Kilos of Love

2008-10-20T13:00:00.000-07:00

Another wonderful breakfast at the hotel. While most of the offerings are the same, there is always something new. Today, we decided to eat in the sukkah. Despite Tel Aviv being a secular city, it's nice to celebrate a Jewish holiday in Israel.

After, Yael and I met with Dani Menkin and his wife Miriam. I have stayed in touch with Dani since the 2nd Annual BAJC Israeli Film and Food Festival. Dani won an Israeli Academy award for 18 Kilos of Love. His beautiful wife Miriam is an American who just made Aliyah in August. She is pregnant with their first child. They took us to Abu Hassan (1 Dolphin Street - on the hill) in Jaffa. Purportedly, it is the best place for hummus. And, they were right. Check it out: http://telavivguide.net/restaurants/Israel_cuisine_Restaurants/Tel_Aviv_Abu-Hasan_(Ali-Karavan)_in_jaffa_2005090813/ After, we strolled in Jaffa and really got to know one another. I hope this relationship continues.

When Dani and Miriam left, Yael and I decided to continue to explore Jaffa. We stopped by the visitors' center to view a short film on the history of Jaffa. Yael bought a lovely necklace from an Israeli artist, Sivan Kohen who just opened her shop two weeks ago. We grabbed a quite bite and a beer at Aladdin, an outdoor cafe with a great view of Tel Aviv. Jaffa is quite different than I remember it from 28 years ago. Noticeably, there were tourists from many countries but no Arabs.

Rather than taking a taxi (not called a cab) we walked along promenade to our hotel. It took us a couple of hours but it was worth it. We stopped along the way at different sheltered benches to gaze out at the Mediteranean. We rewarded ourselves with a delicious gelato. (I had a chocolate pecan and Yael had coconut). During the walk I noticed several people who were begging, as well as a couple of individuals who were rummaging through trash barrels looking for cans. Like any big city, there are needy people. Also, like any city, I saw people who had no regard for the environment and simply through their trash on the street, beach or sidewalk, even though there are plenty of trash receptacles.

After a rest, we ventured out for dinner. Since it is now Simchat Torah, there were definitely less people strolling. We found another restaurant on the beach where we enjoyed a falafel platter. We walked along the beach. The water was so warm. Yael and I both commented how safe we feel here. I am sure there is crime like any city but we still couldn't get over how secure we felt. Then we went to Kakoa, an espresso bar, for a cappacino and incredible apple cake.

As we were eating, we noticed that there were many Israeli families vacationing. Unfortunately, the parents were engrossed in adult conversations, thereby allowing their children to run wild. In fact, Yael rescued one small boy who fell down the stairs. The parents didn't even get up to help.

As we were walking by Buzz Stop, a bar next to Mike's Place, we noticed that there were two American flags that were badly tattered. Since this place is just behind the US Embassy, I sent an email to the embassy to make them aware. We will see if they respond. By the way, Dani told us that Mike's Place was the scene of a terrible terrorist attack back in 2003. You can check it out this sad history by visiting http://www.mikesplacebars.com/history.html.

The days are going by quickly. But, Yael and I are feeling so relaxed.

Sunday in Tel Aviv

2008-10-19T06:57:00.000-07:00

Another fantastic breakfast. Cannot get enough of the herrings and salads.

We visited with Yael's aunt Erika. It turns out that her assisted living facility is two blocks from our hotel. While Yael talked with the social worker, I shared photographs with Aunt Erika. We were able to communicate despite her limited English.

Since Erika needed some clothing, we grabbed a taxi and went to the Tel Aviv mall. Since it is still holiday time here, the mall was packed with young kids. There were many stores that you would see in any mall back home. Big difference was the prices (higher) and the signs (all in Hebrew). After successfully buying some dresses and blouses, we had lunch at the mall pizza place which happened to be kosher. New York has nothing to worry.

The best part of the day came after. We were able to arrange a Skype phone call between Erika and Trude, Yael's mother. They have not seen each other in three years. It was incredible to witness this event. Calls to Jessica and Rachel enabled Erika to see our kids as well.

We had dinner in the hotel. Erika really wanted chocolate milk, something she has craved for awhile. She also wanted to bring back some apple cake for her roommate Anna. We were able to accomplish this and more.... a stop at the local candy store where she got some lemon cough drops and chocolate candy.

For Erika is was a blessing from God. For us, it was as well.

Parking in Tel Aviv

2008-10-19T06:35:00.001-07:00

Forgot to include this photo in last post. Really glad we don't have a car in Tel Aviv!

Saturday Shabbat in Tel Aviv

2008-10-18T14:28:00.000-07:00

After our delicious and filling breakfast, Yael and I decided to walk to the Tel Aviv Art Museum.

The walk was an incredible experience of Shabbat. All the hustle and bustle of yesterday was gone. The streets were relatively empty and most of the stores and restaurants were closed. For the first time I truly appreciated the concept of Shabbat. As we strolled the quiet streets, I was able to observe some real urban wonders. First, there are beautiful flowers in front of people's residences. While there is some garbage in the streets, there are numerous places to recycle bottles. Because there are so many cars, people will park wherever they think they can find a space, even if there isn't one. And, I got to sit in one of the many Sukkahs left open for anyone.

It took us about 1/2 hour to walk to the museum but it was well worth it. The museum has an eclectic collection --- Picasso, Renoir, Matisse as well as Chagall can be found in the many rooms. We bought some souvenirs -- an unusual picture viewer of a Chagall painting, a 2009 Israeli calendar and an artistic salt and pepper shaker for Yael's cousins. We had fun posing our stuffed moose, Gunter, on various sculptures. Note... Gunter will be appearing in places throughout this blog, so keep watching!

When we got back, we decided to go to the beach. The sand was smooth, the water was warm and the view was soothing. We rented a couple of lounge chairs and just gazed out on the Mediterranean Sea. Yael spotted a couple of women sunbathing in the nude. What a country! A young Arab boy came by to sell delicious, fresh pretzels. We watched another sunset. A great way to celebrate Shabbat.

After a quick shower, we arranged for a taxi to take us to Yael's cousin, Izzy who lives in Ashdod. We learned a traveler's lesson.... we didn't negotiate the price nor ask for a receipt so we paid about 60 NIS more than we should have. We had a short visit because Izzy had to go to work at the Sheraton near the diamond center. We took a train back to Tel Aviv (only 34 NIS) and then grabbed a taxi (35 NIS) back to our hotel. Because Shabbat was over, the train was quite crowded. There were many young soldiers. I watched two soldiers, one male and female, no more than 19 years old, try to clear his machine gun which has gotten jammed with dust. They were giggling as they were pulling at the hopefully unloaded gun as if it were a toy. When we arrived at the station, they were joined by scores of their fellow soldiers.

It was nine o'clock and we hadn't eaten dinner yet. We had heard good things from Yehudah about Mike's Place, a restaurant near the American Embassy. As we walked by the Embassy, we noticed a lot of security. Mike's Place was like being in a US restaurant. I ordered a hamburger and a Maccabee beer while listening to live jazz music.

The Mediterranean Sea could be seen and heard across the street. So ends night two.

Shabbat Breakfast

2008-10-18T13:39:00.000-07:00

Woke up and went to a wonderful Israeli breakfast. The choices were all excellent. It's funny that I had to travel all the way to Israel to eat smoked white fish. Heard a lot of different languages around the breakfast cafe. There is a tour group from Norway. However, everything was very orderly and relaxed.

Shabbat in Tel Aviv

2008-10-17T17:47:00.000-07:00

Yael and I caught the sunset over the Mediterranean Sea. There were giant kites that looked fantastic in the sunset. We strolled along the promenade enjoying the incredible views and weather. There are lots of hotels overlooking the beach. We will stop in at the better known Dan Tel Aviv tomorrow but spotted some unusually designed ones. Can't wait to dip our toes in the water tomorrow!

Then, we met Dalit's parents, Tamar & Yehudah for dinner. They treated us to a wonderful meal at Forelin on Frishman Street. Yael had a fish stew and fish kabobs. They also prepared a special iced tea for her. I had a delicious salad followed by a tasty trout FROM northern Israel. I also had a Maccabee beer and an espresso.

We then drove to the harbor which has been redeveloped over the past five years. We strolled from 9:30 to Midnight along the boardwalk. The place was hopping with many restaurants, stores and people. While Yehudah was giving me a guided tour and history, I was marveling at how wonderful it felt to be among so many Jews. There is a vibrancy to the place, as well as a strong sense of security. There was an art exhibit from students at an advertising class. Their assignment was to develop a poster that promotes the harbor. My favorite was "Why go to Greece when everything is here." We stopped at Aroma, an Israeli version of Starbucks (which is no longer in Israel), for cappacinos. It was so relaxing. As I looked out into the sea, I imagined what it was like to watch ships like Exodus arrive in Israel. Tamar and Yehudah were excellent hosts and have become really good friends. As we were leaving the harbor, I spotted a sign for the NY Times Square subway stop. The world really is a small space

We arrived in Tel Aviv

2008-10-17T04:43:00.000-07:00

The 11-hour trip was uneventful. Amazing that 300 people can fly through the air non stop and arrive in Tel Aviv. Interesting mix of people with a lot of praying going on. Applause as the plane landed.

We were going to lease a car but those plans got changed. We ended up taking a taxi from the airport to our hotel. Just as well as I don't think driving here is easy. And, the signs are all in Hebrew!

Our room wasn't ready at the Metropolitan Hotel so we took a walk to Dizengoff Square. It was like being in New York's Chinatown. What a contrast from 28 years ago. Found an air conditioned place to have our first falafel.

Got into our room (711) with a fantastic view of the Mediterranean Sea.

Taking a short nap before visiting the beach and going out to dinner with Dalit's parents.

Connecting to Our Land — Itinerary

2008-10-15T13:33:00.000-07:00

Connecting to Our Land — Tour to Israel with Rabbi Alan Ullman

2008-10-15T13:25:00.000-07:00

Yael and I will be arriving five days before our group with Rabbi Ullman. We will be based in Tel Aviv. Plans so far include visiting Yael's aunt and cousin, attending a Haifa Rotary Club meeting and meeting folks from the Israel film distribution company that I have been emailing for the past two years.

We will meet up with Alan and our group on Wednesday, October 22. I will post our itinerary in next post.

Two days to go

2008-10-13T21:19:00.000-07:00

Just received the following travel advisory: http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_922.html

We remain undeterred.

One Week to Go

2008-10-09T12:52:00.000-07:00

Here's a description from Rabbi Ullman about our trip: The basic concepts of this trip are to be off the beaten path both in terms of the land of Israel and the people of Israel. We will be visiting places in the land of Israel that are breathtakingly beautiful which y0u might not get to see on any trip you would take. The same with people. We will meet people whether they are desert artists or cheese-makers who are making a life in Israel that is as beautiful as the land and whom you would never meet on an ordinary or even somewhat creative trip. Our study sessions will bring out the relationship of sacred text to sacred land past, present and future in conjuction with how people have inhabited place from time immemorial to the present. How the land defines the people and builds a community that has shared in the creation of sacred text and is attempting to be sacred. And to finally see that that includes us today.

Erev Rosh Hashanah

2008-09-29T11:45:00.000-07:00

In less than 3 weeks Yael and I will be in Israel. It is my hope that I will be able to have the time and energy to record this journey.